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Cutting and Fitting the Grand Aissiette
The Figures

Figure 10. Gussets. Draw a circle with the same radius as the depth of your gusset slashes in Fig 9. Cut three wedges from the circle, measuring along the outer curve one third of the difference between the armhole measure and the top edge of the upper sleeve for each one. Two of the wedges will serve as gussets B and C. The third is lengthened to between two thirds and three quarters of the length of the upper sleeve for the gusset inserted into the back sleeve seam. The side edges of this gusset can be curved in slightly to produce a more graceful taper to the sleeve. Decide this at fitting.